Nigel-
I can understand your question, and finding out for myself I can tell you, even though men's fashion seems stagnant, the complexity and all-out work involved is prohibitive to most pattern designs.
Years ago I came across an old, ragged formal jacket. I thought I could do something with it, but it turned instead into a learning expierience. Taking it apart, I discovered that the construction, or foundation, was made of pieces of felt (usally at the shoulders, inner-lapels, and front), horsehair- interwoven with linen, to keep shape, fabric similiar to mattress/pillow ticking everywhere else (including the sleeves and tails). Now, this architecture was done by hand; one could tell by the relative uneven stitching. Here we go to the outside fabric, usually of wool serge or a wool velour crepe, with satin or same fabric trim at lapels, that had to be molded to the inner-foundation. Then of course the lining that conscealed all that other stuff, usually of silk or sateen. Most of of this was done, like I mentioned, by hand (guy with a needle and thread), and fittings, probably a few, would have been had. That's just the jacket...
Whew! Other than finding a vintage garment, or spending...I can't even imagine what... on a new repro done by an expert tailor, best bet is to fake it as best you can! Detachable collar and cuffs are first in creating a men's vintage look. And a hat!
Now...those funny looking sock-garters...sorry! Can't help you on those!
Take care-
Kris
