Morning all,
We arrived at Ringaskiddy, outside Cork, on Good Friday morning, delayed off Roche's Point due to thick fog. The journey across from Swansea via the MV Superferry was a nightmare of Poseidon Adventure proportions. Well, not quite, but I had about half an hour's sleep through the night owing to the precarious angles, creaks and groans the ship was being pitched and rolled to. Having a cabin that overlooked the fo'cs'le just under the bridge probably didn't help as we were right at the front, whereas I assume it would have been gentler midships. All night I couldn't get the image of the Estonia out of my head and imagined having to run down the corridor in half-darkness, with just me underpants on, in a vain attempt to get to a lifeboat.
We then took a train from Cork into Cobh, arriving at about 11-ish (Michael Martin's Titanic Trail was about to depart). Our room wasn't ready at the Commodore Hotel, overlooking Cobh harbour and furthermore, there was a pre-planned power cut throughout the whole island. Some essential electrical maintenance work was being carried out and power went out at 3am that morning and was due to return by 4pm (it eventually came on again at 5.50pm) (10 mins after I finished a cold shower as I couldn't wait any longer). So we decided to visit the Lusitania graves first.
A walk to the top of the town and then down the hill the other side and we were at the graveyard.
It appears new grave markers have been added to the corner of the cemetary holding the Lusitania victims, most of them with naval connections that we were told wouldn't have been possible before the Peace Agreement.
Despite the lack of power in the main town, SuperValu, which is a new supermarket build on a field adjoining the sports pitch across the road from the graveyard, was thriving. Which was good because we were starving and had no cash. Thankfully the cashpoint was working and the cafe was open.
Then we were back in town for a visit to a few pubs. Except none were open - officially, that is. Being Good Friday in Ireland no pubs were supposed to be open. Is this law or a religous observance? Anyway, that's when I went back to the room to have a cold shower. We did get a drink but we were led down to a dark and dank underground room with a long, empty bar except for a barman and lone customer. We had two pints apiece and decided we'd have a meal at the hotel and then have an early night as we'd had very little sleep the night before.
The next day we embarked on Michael Martin's walking tour of Cobh on his Titanic Trail. We'd passed many of the sites he pointed out, the day before, and it was interesting to hear why they were included on the trail. Having heard that the Titanic wasn't visible from the town because it was anchored some way out at Roche's Point, I was intrigued to learn that the Titanic was, in fact, visible from several locations within Cobh. albeit not from the central area istself. We were told that once the tenders had left the White Star Line pier with 123 passengers, friends and relatives of those about to leave Ireland made their way to these vantage points and waved their last goodbyes.
That afternoon, knowing we couldn't go very far because of the train and ferry schedules, we settled for lunch at one of the tables slung out in front of the Commodore. Then we trudged our way back to the station, back to Cork and Ringaskiddy and home.
A very enjoyable time was had and we learned a few tidbits to add to the Titanic story.
I'd love to go back to Irealnd to coincide with the Lusitania ceremony but I've been roped into seeing Maria Stuarda in Wolverhampton, of all places.
Cheers,
Boz
